2022 // Luxembourg on Film
Luxembourg city
Luxembourg, February 2022
I don’t even know where to begin. Luxembourg might be the worst thing to ever happen to me.
Never in my wildest dreams did I ever really think that I would actually go to Luxembourg, let alone focus a whole trip around it. The tiny little country holds space in my mind because of the Schleck Brothers building a cycling dynasty. Most people don’t where it is, or simply assume it’s part of Belgium or Germany.
Little old Hailee moved out there at the end of summer 2020 to attend grad school. I knew I’d visit her at some point, I just didn’t realize a trip would be planned so brashly and abrupt. In a flurry of cheap flights, I booked my trip 2 weeks from my departure date which probably should have been foreshadowing how unhinged my week in Lux would be. The flight over happened with me in a daze as I attempted to stay awake for 24 hours. When I was getting my passport checked, the EU officer earnestly questioned why I was willingly choosing to spend a whole week solely in Luxembourg, teasing that it’s such a tiny place.
Landing, I knew I had to power through the jet lag. Thus began the 10-hour countdown to until I would get to sleep. Hailee kindly made me food and encouraged me to take a nap which I reluctantly obliged. We headed off to town for a single espresso martini then planned to wander the town so I could get my bearings.
Night one: I ended up blacking out, truly setting the tone for the week. I awoke at 3 a.m. from jetlag and panic. Hailee filled me in on the hilarious details in an early morning debrief session. The funniest anecdote is that I slipped down the spiral staircase at the kebab shop. I was completely fine with bruises on my elbows and ego.
The rest of the week was more “mellow” if that’s what you can even call it that. Luxembourg is a very small place, which makes it easy to navigate. I would venture that it’s utopia adjacent on the surface with clean sidewalks, beautiful architecture, and free public transportation - all suffice to say it has its own underlying issues and everything is ghastly expensive.
The best part was meeting Hailee’s friends who were more than hospitable. The more people I met, the more I realized how worldly everyone was, but that’s just the nature of a tiny country. Because of the location, sandwiched between Belgium, France, and Germany, everyone usually speaks 3-5 languages.
Anyway, we drank every day. Everyone likes to drink and can drink. We would always post up at Tube Bar where I managed to blackout; I think I went there on four different occasions. For whatever reason, Hailee and I adopted the late-night ritual of watching Love is Blind and eating toast in her bed. My god, the number of crumbs in that bed by the end of the week was absurd.
Thursday was another chaotic night. The foreshadowing should be when we decide to have a drink at 3 p.m. (in our defense it was also a late lunch). Two girls in an empty bar apparently warrant tequila shots on the house which was another telltale sign things weren’t going how we’d expect them to. We went to Tube for more drinks and friends, before we traipsed across town to the infamous PYG Bar. I think the name says it all. Apparently, karaoke occurs on Thursdays and I decided to sing “Teenage Dream” while standing on a chair with 3 other Irish girls. I think that illustrates how the night went. Friday and Saturday, despite exhaustion and intentionally deciding we wouldn’t be too crazy, we managed to stay out late closing down the bars all while beginning with day drinking and rugby watching.
It wasn’t all degenerate activities. Hailee and I went out to the Mudam for some wholesome activity and culture (Hailee kept saying kiss me under the Noguchi which was her way of embracing the art). Cian made Khao Soi. Eh, that was about it.
My time was primarily focused on spending time with Hailee. We probably bring out the worst in each other when it comes to drinking, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. We’re messy fun. I think we surprised her friends with how chaotic of a duo we are. I mean, we even surprised ourselves by how quickly everything descended, but hey, we kept it together and lost nothing but our dignity which we didn’t really have to begin with. I can’t believe she’s living across the world and is almost done with her degree!!! I’m so proud of her. And the life she’s built in Luxembourg. There are very few people who can do that, and she’s doing it so well.
Bella kept drilling the idea that Luxembourg isn’t a real place in my head, and after my week there, I believe her. Everything didn’t feel real. It was all a fever dream. Amidst the historical buildings, antiquity, and ruins, there is just chaos. I think this was a trip that humbled me and made me realize how truly chaotic I am as a person. Well, can’t wait to go back!
